Tuesday, December 15, 2009

Fortified Boulder, Cannonball Mesa

We recently visited a new to me site that is now one of my favorites. I knew that one site existed on top of Cannonball Mesa, but didn't know how to breach the cliffs. Once I figured out the access, I passed "Boulder House" a Pueblo III site (1200-1300 AD). I first heard of Boulder House as a 2009 Pecos Conference field trip, but have driven within a 1/4 mile dozens of times. Walls standing 2 feet are perched on top of a huge boulder. On the grounds surrounding the boulder are remains of a PIII village. The trail to the top of the mesa passes close by and soon brings one to an amazing view of the Four Corners area.

A narrow band of the mesa top is crossed by a zig zagging prehistoric wall. It is similar, but much longer than those crossing the sandstone tongue leading to The Citadel in SE Utah. A horse trail goes through the "gate". At the tip of the mesa, a few hundred yards past the wall, are the remains of a Pueblo I village (750-900 AD). It is rare to see a PI village because masonry really wasn't used yet. Instead, the Anasazi laid slabs of stone upright as the foundation of walls. Above these were stick and mud constructed upper walls and ceilings. Once these materials collapse, all that is left are the upright slabs, which are usually covered in soil and sand.

Millions of PI red and unpainted pottery sherds and worked stone flakes covered the ground. At the tip of the mesa, next to the village were dozens of sandstone huercos holding water even during this dry month.


Boulder House:


Petroglyphs at the base of the Boulder:


The route to the top of the mesa:


The fortified wall across the mesa:

Trail leading through the "Gate":

Pueblo I pottery and artifacts:


Pueblo I roomblock:


Gypsie in the mesa tip water tanks (Huercos):

Lightening Tree Tower

The Pictograph:


The dogs and I spent a recent Sunday revisiting a favorite Great Sage Plain site of mine, Lightening Tree Tower (5mt1691). The tower still stands at least 15 feet high and was connected to a kiva in a typical Tower/Kiva relationship. The site is a Pueblo III site, meaning that the Anasazi lived here from 1200-1300 AD, just before their permanent abandonment.


It is one of the few Tower sites outside of Hovenweep National Monument, but still protected in Canyon of the Ancients National Monument. Of the top of my head, I can think of 7 other towers in the area, outside of Hovenweep, that have standing walls of at least a few meters. Similar to some, but different from many others, is that Lightening Tree Tower lies in the bottom of a shallow but wide tributary canyon. In this way, it is like Cutthroat Castle, McLean Basin and Painted Hand, but different from the typical PIII layout on a canyon rim, often surrounding a spring.

On the cliffs above the tower is a small cliff dwelling where I found a tiny positive hand pictograph. Missed this on my first two visits. We turned the outing to Lightening Tree Tower into a 5 mile round trip hike, where we walked through many mesa top, open air sites covering about 500 years of occupation.



The Tower:



The Cliff Dwelling:


Looking for a hiking partner: Summer 2010

Looking for a backpacking partner. Trip ideas for summer 2010:

Hermosa Trail (2 days, maybe longer with fishing)

City Resevoir, meadows of Florida (2-3 day weekend)

Weimenuche Pass trail from Rio Grande Resevoir to Los Pinos TH near Vallecito (still researching, but probably 4 days)

Silverton area dayhikes and backpacks - especially an overnighter to Ice/Island/Fuller Lakes for fishing

Length of Isle Royale National Park

What I'm Reading

It's been awhile since I've posted, so here's what I've been reading in the last month or so:

Big Book of Basketball; Bill Simmons. The Sports Guy's reconstruction of the basketball Hall of Fame as well as 700 pages of other thoughts on the topic he writes best about. A great read for NBA fans, Simmons' fans, or anybody interested in hoops and pop culture.

The Art of a Beautiful Game: The Thinking Man's Tour of the NBA; Chris Ballard. Ballard, a Sports Illustrated writer, breaks down the ballet of the NBA through detailed looks at commonplace plays. My second favorite basketball book of the past month, or last decade (Behind Simmons book and Halberstam's two NBA books)

Whiteout: Lost in Aspen; Ted Conover: A look at Aspen in the 1980s. Many similarities to living in Durango.

The Hayden Survey of Mesa Verde and the Four Corners: 1874 - 1876. Chronicle of the first "professional" to explore and chronicle this area. Good hints for future visits, but mostly I just wish the Mud Springs ruin wasn't completely obliterated and looked as it did in 1876.

Eating the Dinosaur: Chuck Klosterman. My favorite Klosterman book yet. I'm still figuring out exactly what it is about.

The Machine: Joe Posnanski. The country's best sportswriter delivers a great book about the 1975 season of the Big Red Machine. I read so much free Posnanski content (si.com, joeposnanski.com/JoeBlog/) that I felt obligated to buy the book.

Wednesday, November 11, 2009

Sunday Drive: Ruins and Rock Art

Three Ruins, Four rock art panels (3 petros, 1 picto). Last Sunday I got out for a Sunday drive through McElmo Canyon, Yellow Jacket Canyon, Cajon Mesa and up Montezuma Canyon. I wanted to revisit a few places I haven't seen in years and hoping to finally notice a new to me site that has been on my radar for years. I found this place (Nancy Patterson Village) and was summarily run off by a landowner or concerned citizen. Semi-scary.


ON the way down McElmo, I stopped at a sort of well known rock art panel located at the confluence of McElmo and Yellowjacket canyons, underneath Cannonball Mesa. This is very close to the Ismay Trading Post. There is another panel directly adjacent to the highway about a mile from Ismay, towards Cortez, though it has been heavily vandalized.

I'm especially interested in the geography of rock art, less so in the symbols. To me, the location is very important and canyon confluences appear to be powerful places. This large panel appears to have road symbology. See Jonathan Till's master's thesis or chapter (with Hurst) in Catherine Cameron's Bluff Great House chapter for more information on roads in SE Utah. The lines, symbols, placement and geography of this site implies marking a formalized route to me.

This is the nicest rock art panel, that I know of in the Canyon of the Ancients. But, I hold out hope for a large Basketmaker San Juan style panel along some lonely sandstone wall.


Most don't realize that this panel lies within the "Morley Kidder 1917" PIII site, named after early archaeologists. I've seen other bloggers recount "discovering" this ruin at the rock art and even naming it.

I continued west to the Hovenweep site that I oddly seem to visit the least: Cajon Mesa Unit. Disparaging print is often published about Cajon, but I like this site. It's lightly visited, beautiful and more interesting than Horseshoe and Hackberry (Cutthroat is probably my favorite).
There is a picto, which I didn't photograph, underneath the ledge down by the spring.


A view from the north, restored side of the site, looking across the canyon head spring to the rubble mounds of the south. A nice cliff dwelling is under that rubble and ledge. This is also where the picto is.




All the hovenweep units are so photogenic, even in big, washed out Utah skies.






This rock art panel is a few miles up the Montezuma C road, north of Ismay Trading Post. It's next to the road and is more visible for the bullet holes. In this part of the country, bullet holes often indicate rock art.
Just south of this panel was a south facing cliff dwelling of several rooms. The ruin appeared inaccessible, about 100 feet above the valley floor and 20 feet below the mesa rim.


If I am guessing right, this huge rubble mound is the Nancy Patterson Village (42SA2110), with 260 rooms and 25+ kivas in the late PIII era. I've also read that the PIII village overlays several successive layers of anasazi sites.
The village is located in the wide valley, on a 100' butte or bluff above the confluence of Cross and Montezuma canyons. Based on the number of ruins up each, this was another very important confluence.

The main gravel road up Montezuma Canyon passes close, possibly through, the village. A two track dirt road turns off the main and actually loops right through the site. The rubble mounds stretch over several hundred yards.
Because of the size, location, incredible array of artifacts and pottery, and the overwhelming evidence of looting, the Nancy Patterson village reminds me of Squaw Springs. Both are also in important geographical locations, close to water and possible cross roads.

The village is the bump at the center of the photo, taken from the road below along the wash.

I was able to wander the site for 15 minutes, looking for arrowheads, when I noticed a truck pull up behind me. A Navajo or Ute man waved me over, my heart beating fast:
Me: Hello, I'm interested in archeology and was walking over this site.
Him: Ok. We can see you from our house across the valley
(the house was well over a mile away, but this site is very visible)
Me: Ok
Him: You know, this is private...
Me: I did not know that. The road is not signed and I thought this was public land. I'll clear out of here right now.
Him: Ok, you do that.
And I did.

Thursday, October 29, 2009

Damnit - It is too early (10/28)


Reading: Walter Moers

The 13 1/2 Lives of Captain BlueBear and The Alchemaster's Apprentice by Walter Moers. I love these books. They are adolescent/adult fiction, but smart, creative and good reads. I like KLaw's closing paragraph best (http://meadowparty.com/blog/?p=170):
The whole book is deliberately silly, and there’s little narrative greed to drive you towards the end – no big foozle to kill, no major question to answer, etc. It doesn’t have the relentless plot of the Harry Potter books or the cheerful nihilism of The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy, but instead floats along on its own absurdity. It’s a bit like empty calories, but speaking as someone who loves a rich dessert, empty calories are a perfectly acceptable part of a balanced literary diet – as long as they’re worth it.







Thursday, October 15, 2009

Columbus Day camping: Cedar Mesa

We spent the Columbus Day weekend camping on Cedar Mesa with some Durango friends, enjoying glorious weather. It was a perfect fall weekend in Utah with temps ranging from 35-70. Because our friends were pulling a 24+ foot trailer, camping was limited and had to be specific. We found a nice location about 6 miles back on the Cigarette Springs road. Within a mile of our campsite I found numerous BM III - PIII ruins, with the bulk being BM III - PII open air sites. Plain gray ware and some Bluff/Deadman's black on orange was abundant. Later PIII black on white and corrugated pottery was also found.

As with all Anasazi posts, locational information will be sparse.

This view came on the last day of our trip, but is my favorite. Those who know CM should know this site.


Coming from Durango, our first stop was at the Anasazi Heritage Center to Adaira could feed. I hiked the dogs to the Escalante outlier. Here's the classic view of the chacoan kiva, blocked in with 8 low pilasters. McPhee rez in the background.

Gyppie running through three T shaped doors. Put a roof on them, lose the "T" and extend to 6, and this would look like the classic Pueblo Bonito photo (http://rionewmexico.com/media/attractions/national-parks/chaco-culture/2006051617200848437_PuebloBonitoDoors.jpg).

Waiting for our friends to catch up, we stopped at Comb Wash. I hiked back to an outlier that has only been identified in the past 20 years. A favorite mound of rubble for me.

Thanks to chapter 4 of the Bluff Outlier book, I hiked around to find the towers. Most were rubble, but this surprised me to find 6' standing walls.

The east trending CM canyon where we did most of our hiking:

A small habitation site. I've seen Kelsey inaccurately label this site as a "kiva". I disagree. There are no kiva features except the roof and shape (round). It's not a kiva, but is a habitation site in the midst of several granaries.


A basketmaker or PI cist. I've came across < a dozen of these before; 4 on this weekend. Very cool.


A "famous" site in our canyon. I met a group walking downcanyon asking if I had been to "The Road House". I told them that there is a nearby site famous with photographers that goes by a different name (I call it the "Dragon Granary" for the white image in stone).

Since he brought up Road House, I'll call it the Double Deuce. RIP Swayze.


A new to me site in a side canyon, underneath a canyon confluence. Wonderfully preserved. A broken metate lay beneath one door.


Another site in our canyon that has gotten exponentially more popular in the last 15 years. It is still striking. But, on a holiday monday, we passed 3 groups of a total of 10 people going here. Sometimes I curse Google Earth and David Roberts.




Friday, October 9, 2009

Reading: Tender is the Night; Fool

I read Tender is the Night in my early 20s and revisited lately. I'm sure that much of this book was lost upon me the first time; it's an excellent novel to revisit in your mid 30s. Fitzgerald's prose is legendary and I enjoyed this story more than Gatsby. A classic.


I also finished the Moore 'cannon' with Fool. Interesting story: The telling of King Lear through the eyes of Pocket, Lear's fool. Up there with The Stupidest Angel and Lamb, I enjoyed Fool and loved this impression of Moore after the disappointing "You Suck".





Wednesday, October 7, 2009

Couple pics from the morning hike on Raider Ridge from the main Horse Gulch trail head.


Monday, October 5, 2009

Fall Colors: Owl Creek Pass

I love road trips and thought I'd try to get Adaira hooked early. In retrospect, a 9 hour roadie was probably a bad idea. We had a great time, saw amazing scenery and, well, Adaira made it.

We took 550 north to Ridgeway, stopping at Little Molas Lake and the Christ of the Mines Shrine in Silverton, two places local places I've never visited. From Ridgeway we took good gravel roads over Owl Creek Pass into the Cinamarron River valley, downstream to US 50, West to Montrose. Finally turning South on 550 back to Durango.

Little Molas Pass


Engineer Mountain above Little Molas Lake

From Silverton, looking down the Animas River canyon

Silverton from the shrine



The shrine overlooking Silverton


Ouray

Top of Owl Creek Pass. First time on this road


Looking up just north of Chimney Rock, towards Wetterhorn Mtn

Cinamarron River

Cliffs to the East of the Cinamarron


Best of the fall colors at about 10,000. We were about 1 week too late for peak colors